Is the modeling world going to take a hit from virtual models? Are celebrity brand ambassadors causing models to lose jobs? A few weeks ago we had the opportunity to speak with the founder of the American modeling agency APM, Penny Basch about exactly these issues. In the conversation we talked about the successful modeling agency she founded, the special journey she took and how she sees the future of the industry.
So how was the agency founded? Why did you open it?
" I grew up in the industry but from the other side of it. My mother had an acting agency and I grew up booking since I was 12 years old. For Broadway plays, theater, movies and TV series. I had training in the world from a young age. 50 years ago, my mother was one of the first in this world to bring diverse actors to the screen. At that time, most actors had lighter features. She brought more diverse and interesting actors to the industry. She was an excellent business woman, with every project came her way, she would figure out how to find the appropriate talent."
It sounds like a really special experience to grow into
"She Worked on shows such as Sesame Street where she brought a diverse group of child actors to the screen. Joe's Apartment, a movie that was filmed 30 years ago in New York called for people with non typical appearances. People with tattoos, People with piercings and we were able to supply the actors needed to make the movie happen. the company then grew to supply talent for music videos. For Alanis Morissette and Joan Osborne to name a few. And whenever clients needed diverse people they came to us ."
So how did you actually move into the fashion industry and become a modeling agent?
"At that time, many of my friends were models who worked in the fashion industry. And I would often hear how I should open my own agency, that models need someone with "my way of thinking" to manage them. This was in the nineties and from time to time you would hear of practices that were not acceptable. Such as models getting sexually exploited or possibly not getting paid. They encouraged me to open my own company and explained how it will allow them to feel safe to do their job. And they helped me in every step of the way. "
Can I ask you if the agency was the first to be led by a woman at that time?
"I am not sure because I never really thought about it. I grew up next to such a strong female force. And in a company that was owned by my mother. I didn't really attach any importance to it. I think they came to me because of my work ethic and proper business practices. There are women in this industry that I would never work with. And on the other hand, amazing men who I prefer to work with. I think in the end my values were what they needed at that time."
You talked about values and forward thinking. How is your agency different? What is unique about APM compared to other agencies?
"I keep my agency small so that I can give personal attention to each model and really listen to them. Attention to the small details is very important to me, I think success is in the small details. When you take the time to make sure that the models are safe, receive the proper care and also provide the right service You do right by the client and the model. You are the mediator and you have to make sure that both parties are satisfied. Whether it is paying attention to exactly what color nail polish the client asked for or making sure that the model is treated properly. In my opinion this is the way to properly achieve the best results ."
In the last year we have seen that many brands are hiring more celebrities as brand ambassadors. Do you feel this is changing the face of the industry in the US? Are there fewer jobs for models right now?
"Celebrities have been getting modeling jobs for years, it won't "change" the industry. But what is different today are the work requirements. There are countless independent and young brands looking for diverse models so there are also many more opportunities. It is easier today than in the past. There used to be around 20 cosmetic brands for example, today there are thousands. And that means many more doors are opening as well. The agency represents a variety of models, each suitable for a different type of work."
And what about virtual models? A lot of people are talking about artificial intelligence replacing the real models. Do you feel it could happen?
"There is a real possibility of that happening, we have seen a few examples already. But ultimately nothing can replace the actual contact of having a model they're doing their work. I think that when you own a business you have to stay creative and come up with innovative solutions all the time. The world is constantly changing and there will always be something new. 20 years ago these were the celebrities who suddenly started to appear on magazine covers. People have asked me, does this threaten you? My answer is "no I just have to think of a new plan". And as for the virtual models it's real, it will happen. I've seen some of these models created with AI and they look amazing . I understand that. But we'll just adjust ourselves to what's coming."
the truth? This conversation left me with a positive feeling about the future. It's exciting to hear how a strong business woman manages to lead the industry for decades. How does she manage to professionally bring to this world a substantial change that truly comes from the heart. And if the APM agency isn't afraid of the virtual models, it seems we shouldn't be either…
